Cover front edges of top and bottom strips with matching wood trim and sand other parts smooth. Then mount them with glue and nails 1/8" in from front edge of cabinet.

Test sliding doors for fit by lifting them into the top grooves first, then lowering them into bottom grooves.

Finger grips, 1/2" wide and 1/2" deep, for sliding doors, are cut out with a dado saw, by pressing door down carefully on blade into marked area. After cutting, sand smooth. If you have no dado saw, grips can be carved out with a sharp chisel and filed smooth. After cut is made, it may be finished with wood trim.

To make the holes for adjustable shelf rests, bore 1/4" best holes 3/8" deep through a template into sides of cabinet. Set the hole as far apart as you wish, depending on desired position of shelves.

Various types of shelf rests to suit your needs can be obtained from hardware stores.

To begin construction of bed, cut a base bed     board from 3/4" plywood, 30" wide and 72" long. Cut two 3/4" plywood reinforcing strips, 3" wide and 72" long, and attach with glue and nails to under side of bed board, flush with sides. Also, cut one 3/4" plywood reinforcing strip 3" by 24", for each end, and attach to under side with glue and nails, flush with each end of bed board.

Next, cut two 1/2"-by-2"-by-72 1/2" solid wood strips for sides, and one 1/2"-by-2"-by-31" strip for front end of bed. On the ends where side and end strips will  meet, miter to 45-degree angle. Attach strips with glue and nails, keeping flush with under side of bed board. These strips will not only help decorate the bed, but will also hold the foam rubber mattress.

To make bed support, which will be mounted to 6 '" head of bed and hold it in place, glue together two 3/4" plywood pieces, 6" by 32". Center piano hinge on edge of bed support, make sure it is square and bore holes for screws.

Mount support strip to head of bed with 1 1/2" No. flathead screws. Make sure both ends of support extend evenly beyond bed.

Make folding drop leg by gluing together two pieces of 3/4" plywood, 8" wide and 28" long. Before cutting width dimension, hold bed assembly in place and measure distance from bed to floor, to be sure bed will be level when resting on drop leg. Fasten folding brackets to drop leg flush with top edge.

Mount folding drop leg to foot of bed. Place the drop leg 1" in from edge of foot of bed. When mounting, make sure drop leg is square and flush with bed sides.

With 2 1/2" No. 14 flathead screws, mount the entire bed assembly in place, snug against the bottom board of the headboard cabinet.

The reclining headboard is made of 1/4" plywood, 19" by 31", and reinforced with 3/4"-by-2" solid wood strips, which are glued and nailed on the back, flush with edges.

Drive corrugated fasteners into corners of reinforcing frame for additional support.

To upholster headboard, the author used a 19”-by-31”. Slab of foam rubber, and covered it with fabric, tacking the edges of the fabric along the inside edges of all but one strip of the reinforcing frame, which will be mounted to headboard cabinet. Tack fabric along outside surface of this strip.

To mount the headboard, the author used a "recliner  bracket", which can be obtained from hardware or department stores. The bracket holds the headboard so it can be placed in a reclining position, as shown in photo 28, or so it can be pushed up and back, closing the headboard cabinet. The bracket is mounted to inside edge of the top strip of reinforcing frame.
 
Mount entire headboard assembly to main shelf of headboard cabinet, making sure headboard is square and centered.

This photo shows the headboard in reclining position. When closing headboard, the top and sides must fit easily into headboard cabinet.

When the drop leg is pulled down, the folding brackets are locked by pushing supporting arm forward.

To fold up drop leg, lift bed slightly, pull drop leg out toward foot of bed, push folding brackets in and lift drop leg parallel with bed.

When bed is folded up, mattress will be held between bed and cabinets. If two mattresses are used, the bed support must be made wider to accommodate the extra mattress.

This lock device will add a finishing touch to your wallbed and keep the bed in an upright position when not in use. Use 3/4" plywood to make the bases, and taper a piece of 1/2 solid wood to make the lever.

If you wish, mount a flush light fixture in the center of the bed unit ceiling. Place the switch on lower part of right or left partition near head of the bed, so it can be reached without getting out of bed.

Material List

3 sheets ¾” plywood, 4’ by 8’
1 sheet ¼” prefinished plywood  Panel, 4’ by 7’
1 piece solid oak, ½” by 8” by 6’
1 piece solid oak, ¾” by 6” by 4’
48’ matching wood trim, 1”
2 folding brackets, 8”
1 headboard recliner bracket
1 piece foam rubber, 2” by 2’ by 3’
1 foam rubber mattress 5: by 30” by 6”
3’ piano hinge with 1 ½” screws, (single dimension) 1”
1 pt. contact cement
1 qt. wood glue
3 doz. Flathead screws, 1 ¼” No. 10
4 adjustable shelf supports
Matching putty
Sandpaper, Nos. ½ 2/0, 4/0

Bed folds in between partitions, drop leg folds up and wooden lock holds bed securely.

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