Mount the top cover extension to sewing machine cabinet, again using special sewing machine hinges. Each hinge is recessed by first boring the diameter and depth of round portion of hinge. Next, cutout straight portion with wood chisel.

On Next, using glue and screws, a slanted bottom portion (slanted to allow more knee space) is added to the bottom of the sewing machine cabinet for additional support and safety. This is made by mounting a 3 1/2"-wide-by-10"-long wood strip to the inside back part of machine cabinet. On the front inside panel, mount a 10"-long solid wood cleat, 3/8" from, and parallel with, bottom edge. Next, cut a 1/4"-thick-by-10"-wide-by-17"-long plywood piece, round all edges, and attach it to the solid wood strip and cleat with glue and brads.

Then, to allow joint control switch to be operated with knee, mount bracket which holds switch in place. Follow manufacturer's instructions to make a cut-out in the slanted plywood bottom, leaving the necessary clearance to told switch inside.

Finish the sewing machine cabinet using a matching stain and filler, and a satin gloss varnish for the final coat. The author used a Gaston Nakora Finishing Kit, which comes with all necessary stains, fillers, varnish and instructions.

Mount No. 317 Grant heavy-duty slides, 24" long, 26" from the floor, to each side partition of sewing machine section. Now mount the rollers to sewing machine cabinet, making sure the sewing machine working surface is 30" from the floor.

When attaching rollers, it is wise to mount an extra roller for each slide next to inner rollers. The additional roller will balance the weight when the machine is pulled out, and prevent it from tipping over.

The completed sewing machine cabinet is placed on top of slides, leaving slides in pulled-out position. Paraffin may be rubbed on tops of slides for smooth operation.

Cut two 3/4"-by-l"-by-20" pieces of matching solid wood to make cover strips to conceal rollers and slides. Round off outside ends. Mount to each front and back of cabinet, flush with top.

Make magazine and pattern racks, using by-1 1/2"-by-8" matching solid wood for the sides. Use 3/4" by 1 1/2" by 20" of the same wood for bottom parts, and l1/2"-by-l"-by-21 1/2" strips for the front pieces, which are to be notched into the side pieces and fastened with glue and brads. Next, mount magazine and pattern racks in same section as sewing machine, using roundhead screws through side strips. Mount the first rack 8" from top of section, and mount second rack 4" below first rack.

To make spool rack, follow the instructions and illustrations in chapter titled space saving tool rack. The folding leaves of spool rack are 4" wide by 26"  long. The holes in the perforated hard board must be alternated so that 2 large spools can be placed on hooks opposite each other.

Container for iron is made of 3/4"-thick matching wide by 10" high by 10" deep. Cover  the inside of all parts, including door, with thick asbestos.

The door to iron container is made of 8"-by-103/4"plywood, 8" wide by 10" high by 10" deep. Cover the inside of all parts.

Cut a piece of 1/4" plywood and attach between parti-tions above plastic molded drawers with glue and nails. Attach iron container on shelf above drawers against left partition with glue. Make sure front of iron container is flush with front edges of shelf and partition. Mount a shelf to top of iron container, again keeping front edges flush. Cover all front edges of iron container, as well as all shelves, with matching wood trim.

Fig. C. Material scrap box, then sliding board, then ironing board and work table are built respectively, step by step.

The material scrap box is made to hold a large / amount of materials and its top acts as a combination platform for the ironing board and an additional pull-out board. To make scrap box, mount a 3/4" plywood panel on top of two 3/4"-thick-by-2"-wide cleats which are glued and screwed to side walls, following diagrams. This panel will be the top of the material scrap box.

Fig. E. Top and cross section of side strip.

To make front panel, mount upright cleats to each ""side panel, 3/4" in from front edge of top. Then mount an 8"-high-by-3/4"-thick, matching plywood panel to upright cleats, snug against sides and bottom.

Mount door lid (see Fig. C) to front panel with piano hinge. Before mounting, make a 3"-long-by-by 2"-deep cutout in center of top edge for finger grip, and cover all edges with matching wood trim. Then mount door catches.

On each side of top of scrap material box, mount a 4"-wide, solid wood strip, snug against sides and flush in front. Cover all front edges with matching wood trim.

Fit and mount a sliding board (see Fig. C for dimensions), keeping front edge flush with previous assembly. Cut a finger grip in center of width and 1" from front. Cut a stop block, 3/4" wide by 1/4" deep, and attach to sliding board at exact center of top surface and flush with back edge. Use glue and nails.

To make ironing board assembly, an ironing board support base, cut from matching plywood to dimensions shown in Fig. C, will first be mounted on top of sliding board assembly. Make a cutout in the front edge, large enough to clear the finger grip of the sliding board. Also, in the exact center of the bottom surface, cut a groove, 1" wide by 3/8" deep, extending from the back edge to 2" from cutout. This is the groove along which the stop block, which is attached to the sliding board, will slide. Then, attach support base with glue and nails.

Cut two pieces of 3/4" plywood, which will become HO opposite side strips, according to dimensions shown in Fig. E. Rabbet the inside edge of each strip, according to Fig. E. Using glue and nails, mount side strips to top of support base, flush in front and snug against sides and back.

Cut an ironing board, 15" wide by 5' long, from 3/4"  Novoply. Taper both sides from 15" at base to 4" at small end, and round all edges. From same material, cut a sliding plate, 3/4" by 12" by 18 3/4", which is to fit between the two side strips, so that it can slide freely. Make a rabbet, 5/16" by 9/16", on upper edges of both sides of sliding plate. Mount sliding plate to back edge of ironing board with 1 1/2" piano hinge, leaving an equal amount extending on each side.

Fit ironing board and sliding plate into place to make sure that they both clear the side strip cutouts by 1/8". After testing ironing board and sliding plate for size, mount 1/4"-by-l" metal strips on shoulders of side strips. If thickness between side strips and sliding plate varies, the space between them must be shimmed out to allow them to slide freely and remain even.

Make an ironing board support leg of 3/4" matching plywood. Adjust the height of the board by first trying with a strip of scrap wood in a slanted position. Cut the top and bottom edges of support leg to the correct angle. Then hinge the support leg to the ironing board, using strap hinges and at least one bolt and tee nut in each direction of each hinge (see Fig. D, detail B).

Set support leg of ironing board into proper position then mount safety chain on the inside. Now make a support block, slanted, of 2" by 2" solid wood, as shown in Fig. D, detail B. Glue and screw the block to the bottom surface of ironing board.

Sliding sewing machine cabinet, magazine and pattern racks and pegboard spool racks make compact built-in unit.

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