This is a handsome bathroom-powder room combination that you can build in the tiny space of 4½' by 6'. If you wish, you can add a stall shower in an additional space of 30" by 30". Where can you find the space? It may be right under your roof. Look for it in the unused end of a hall, under a stairway (be sure to check headroom here), or perhaps you have back-to-back closets that may be opened up to make the needed room. An extra-large bedroom could be paneled off, or a large bathroom might be split into two small ones by adding a panel in the middle and relocating the fixtures, If possible, place the new fixtures near existing water and drainage lines to lower the plumbing bill. Also check the floor joists to be sure they can carry the added weight: conventional fixtures weigh up to 20 lb. per square foot; tile in mortar up to 30 lb.
Three walls of this bathroom-powder room combination were covered with prefinished Weldwood walnut V Plank panels, and the fourth wall was covered with washable Imperial wallpaper. The vanity      unit was made of ¾" plywood, and its top and apron      were covered with plastic laminate (dove-gray Micarta). The vanity cabinet, which has 20 cubic feet of storage space, was finished with walnut wood trim to match the walnut walls. The utility cabinet over            the toilet is made of walnut plywood and the louvered doors, as well as the magazine rack below the cabinet, are solid walnut. The floor is covered with Gold Seal mocha and red pure vinyl. The 30" by 30" stall shower was installed by breaking through the far wall and constructing a frame of 2" by 4"s. The waterproof shower walls were made of prefabricated panels consisting of Vi" plywood base covered with gray Micarta. The shower ceiling, which contains a waterproof light fixture, was covered with similar panels, and the shower floor was made of a metal pan, cut to size and fitted around the drain, then covered with ceramic tile. The shower door, one of many kinds available in standard sizes at plumbing supply stores, was made to size by the Lehman Spray shield Co.The built-in motif is carried to the smallest items in this project. The vanity lid closes to make a convenient table area, and underneath is a built-in ashtray. Over the washbasin, a built-in toothbrush, glass and soap holder opens at the touch of a finger, and in the wall opposite the toilet, a built-in paper holder folds away unseen. These are "Conceal-All" units, obtained from A. Marchand, Inc., of New York.

To begin top section of vanity cabinet, spread a large sheet of paper on a flat surface and make a full-size layout of the top and front views, following the diagrams on the next pages. The layout will enable you to visualize and check the proportions of the cabinet.        

Begin making apron of cabinet first. Cut front, back, sides, and corner pieces from ¾" plywood, following dimensions in the diagram. In cutting, observe 45-degree-angle corner piece which will face bathroom entrance. Joint cuts should be made at 22½-degree angles to fit correctly.

Using glue and 6d nails, assemble the front and back panels to left side panel with bottoms flush, so that the larger back panel will extend to form splashboard. Cut middle section piece and attach with glue and nails.

Glue right side and angled corner piece to front and back sides. Drive nails both ways into angled corner piece. Cut bottom of cabinet from ¾" plywood and attach to apron with glue and 6d nails.

Cabinet top is made of Novoply, cut to size, and attached to apron with waterproof glue and nails.

Following diagram, draw outline of vanity opening on cabinet top and front. Cut out with keyhole or bayonet saw. Straight, slow cutting is essential.

Using the cutouts, assemble the vanity lid. For easy nailing, place, front piece in vise, and nail lid top to front piece, as shown.

Sides are covered with plastic laminate, following manufacturer's instructions. The author used Micarta in this project, with Weldwood contact cement.

After both sides have been covered, cover front of apron with plastic laminate, allowing it to extend ¼  over 45-degree-angle corner. To cover corner piece, insert laminate snugly beneath overlap, then press down firmly.

Trim off excess laminate. A trim attachment on a Roto-Jig is used here. If you have no power jig, use a sharp plane and file.

Draw an outline of vanity lid opening on plastic laminate which covers front of apron. Using a fine-toothed saw, cut out vanity lid opening. Cut on push stroke only, to avoid rough outside edges.

Cut plastic laminate to fit top. Glue and mount.

Cut ¼ "-thick walnut wood strips to fit inside edges of the vanity opening. Round off upper edges, and attach strips with glue and brads so that they extend 1/8" above the opening.
 
Mount lid with piano hinge, making sure top surface of the lid is level with top surface of the cabinet.

With glue and nails, attach ¼” solid walnut wood strip to bottom edge of vanity lid. This walnut strip serves as a decoration as well as an inconspicuous handle.

Mount the 8" solid brass lid support so that the lid remains in a 90-degree upright position when open.

If your sink has a frame like the American Standard sink used here, place frame on cabinet top and mark cutting line. If there is no frame, measure sink top and mark cutting line from measurements.

Saw out opening with keyhole or bayonet saw. If you have frame, fit it into opening. Sink is mounted later.

To begin bottom section of vanity cabinet, mark and cut out plywood pieces to dimensions shown in Figs. B and C.
 
Start assembly by mounting sides to bottom with glue and 6d nails. Keep front edges flush.

Attach center partition with glue and nails through bottom, again keeping front edges flush.

Cabinet base should be 3" in from front and sides, and flush with back. Attach base with glue and nails, driving nails through bottom.

To give additional support to base, attach 2" iron angles with screws.     

On ¾" plywood which will be front piece, mark and cut out openings as shown in Fig. B. Attach to bottom and sides of cabinet with glue and nails. Mount bottom door guide strips inside both compartments flush with edges of openings.

Place mounting cleats on the uprights, flush with top edges. These will be used later to hold top and bottom sections of vanity cabinet together. Use glue and nails.  

Cover edges of openings with matching wood trim. Cut two pieces of ¾" plywood to fit into top and bottorn of sliding door opening. In top piece, cut two grooves 5/16" wide, ½" deep and 5/16" in from front edge, with ¼" space between. In bottom piece, cut two grooves ¼" deep and, as in the top piece, 5/16" wide, 5/16" in from front edge, with ¼" space between.

Detail A. How lips of sliding doors fit in grooves.

Are You Ready To Move Onto The Next Lesson? Click Here